Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek

Drive from Mornington back to the GRR and the closed Imintji Roadhouse

The drive out of Mornington was uneventful – we were just marveling at the ranges and landscapes. We drove up the King Leopold Range and stopped for some pictures at a scenic lookout. We liked it so much that we decided to stay for the night. A couple of cars stopped for the views, but none stayed – juhuu the beautiful place all to us!

Stunning views from our free camp at King Leopold Range

The beautiful sunrise was long gone before Sarah got up and after 'breakfast with view' we were on the road again, heading to Windjana Gorge. On the way we past more great lookouts, enjoyed the different landscape of King Leopold Range and took a picture of “Queen Victoria” at the Napier Range. The road was a mix of good, bad and worse corrugations – as we thought, but a driver with a Jayco caravan was overtaking us with ~80km per hour. Everything is relative!

Lookout at King Leopold Range, the Napier Range and "Queen Victoria"

Windjana Gorge

At the turn off to Windjana Gorge the road was smooth again. Unfortunately we passed the grader 7 km down the road (of a total of 20km) but at least it should mean the way back out is all smooth!

Windjana Gorge is one of the highlights of the Gibb and therefore the campground is crowded. There is a 7 km walk into the gorge and just to look at the rock formations is beautiful. These rocks are so different from the boulders or squares that we saw so far.

We met a Swiss family with a 5 year old girl (Marina) and after a play and coffee we all walked into the Gorge (2km) to find the Freshies that should be living here. No disappointment: in the shallow, remaining water within the gorge were about 100 crocodiles, sunning in the afternoon sun or lying in the water. We’ve never seen that many before in one spot. The walk was beautiful, along the sandy beach and tree-lined side of the high vertical cliffs, lit up by the afternoon sun. Sarah and Marina had fun running around and weren’t impressed or worried by all those crocs so close by.

A bower bird nesting, Windjana Gorge and Crocs galore - anyone up for a swim?

Tunnel Creek

Next morning (after a social night with Teresa and Rob and a bottle of wine) we all drove the 35 km to Tunnel Creek, the second highlight of the area. The history of the site is a long lasting fight and resistance of the original inhabitants and the white settlers. 

Walk trough Tunnel Creek

During the Wet this cave system is under water but in the Dry you can walk through, wading through the water a couple of times until you reach the other side after about 750m. Half way the roof caved in at one point, creating a nice opening to let some light and air into the tunnel.

The End of the GRR

The road out of Windjana was freshly graded (as we thought) and there were only a couple of km's left on the Gibb River Road with some corrugation.  Soon enough we were on bitumen again and about 70km later we turned off the GRR onto the Highway towards Derby.

The End

Our Impression

Martin: When we first looked at caravans we always had in mind to do the gruelling Gibb River Road. You hear all those stories of broken down vans, shaken to bits by the corrugation. After doing the Savannah way across the top of Queensland to the centre of the Northern Territory, we weren't sure if we were up for the GRR. So we left the decision up to the last day. In the end we just had to do it - It's a long way from Brisbane if we ever want to do it - and it was sort of the highlight of our trip planning.
What we found was nothing like we expected. Throughout the GRR was in good to excellent condition. An average bit of Savannah way was probably the worst we encountered on the GRR. There are so many tourists, rental cars and tour buses that they have to keep it in good order. There was the Pentecost crossing, but otherwise no challenges. The rest of the challenging stretches are now bitumen. 
Most of the camping is at commercial camp sites. A lot of the free camps are getting closed down by the station owners. Probably because of all the rubbish and toilet paper people leave behind (Shame on you!). Also the station stays aren't station stays. They are commercial operations / resorts run by the stations. Don't expect any real outback experience there.
We finished the GRR with some mixed impressions. There is the fantastic landscape, gorges, wildlife, scenery and experiences which will leave lasting memories. But on the other hand the GRR is getting flogged to death by tourists and commercialisation.
Regine: As Martin said, the Gibb was completely different also to my expectations. I think, we've been very lucky in our timing, driving on a just graded road most of the time. Talking to other people before and after, they must have experienced worse conditions. But it's not 'Austalias last adventure' anymore and very commercial. There's no outback spirit, not as we experienced it on the Savannah Way where people stop to check on you if you're on the side of the road. But  I'd love to come back and see more of the beautiful Kimberleys and for sure there's enough left to see to do it again some day.